Unreal Uzbekistan

Just outside of Osh, we said goodbye to the wonderful Begaim and Kyrgyzstan. After a thorough search (Julia's photos from a Gay Pride event were the subject of some scrutiny!), we picked up the first of our Uzbek guides, Farrukh, and drove to Fergana. Here, Farrukh welcomed us to the country by a) organising a money change which almost turned us all into millionaires  and b) cooking up some delicious plot.

Maree and all her Uzbek som

Farukh preparing traditional plov (lamb and rice pilau) 

The group tucking in

Next stop was Tashkent, but the journey there was not made together. Between Fergana and Tashkent is the Kamchik Pass, over which vehicles carrying more than 5 people are not allowed. So, under the cover of darkness, Will and I took Penelope over the pass ahead of the group. The checkpoint at the top is unavoidable and there was a tense wait in the queue as we mentally urged the occupants of other vehicles not to draw too much attention to us by staring. Our innocent faces seemed to do the trick and in the early hour we were through and winding down the other side of the pass. The group followed with Farrukh the next morning in a convoy of taxis, stopping on the way at a silk factory and the Palace of Khudáyár Khán in Kokand.

Sorting the silkworm cocoons

Boiling the cocoons

Learning about the silk-making process

Looms

The finished product

Jen being a goof in the gift shop

Khan's Palace, Kokand

The group in one of the surviving 19 rooms - there were once 113! Many of the cities of what we now know as Uzbekistan were completely trashed by Genghis Khan and his descendants in the 13th Century

I'm not sure if Ratty & Rosie have some big news or something...

Detail of a shield

In Tashkent, we met our new guide Bek while Farrukh went home to his newborn son (armed with a few name suggestions!). We also had to say a very sad farewell to Anil, who had made the difficult but brave decision to return to the US due to health concerns. It was a pleasure, Anil, and you will be missed immensely!

The show must go on. Our morning in the capital was grey and rainy, but the impressive sights remained undiminished.

Rob the Elder, John & Maree shelter from the rain

From here we enter the heart of the Silk Road – the incredible cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva, centres of learning and craft, fought over for centuries, destroyed and rebuilt. The sun came out for us in Samarkand, where almost a full day was dedicated to a tour of the city, including its rightfully famous landmarks: the Registan, Timur's mausoleum Ger-e Amir, and the Bibi-Khanym Mosque.

Registan Square

Kent & Eamonn

Bek & the group

Jen

Standard way to carry money around

Maree, Rob the Elder, Ed & Jo

Rob the Younger gets into the Uzbek spirit

Rob the Elder and his hat

The group admiring the ceiling

Timur

Colourful fountains

We continued west to Bukhara for a stop of 3 nights, much to the delight of everyone. After another comprehensive walking tour of the historic sights with Bek, the group was free to explore as long as they were back in time for the vodka tasting evening!

Kat, Kelly & Eugene. Kat who is vegetarian often struggles to find good food (i.e. not a plate of french fries!).  These vege kebabs were a massive hit

Jo, Julia & Martha with the Bukhara skyline

Both here and Samarkand are popular wedding venues for Uzbeks

Ratty & Rosie check out some carpets

Kat & a cat

Martha & Bek

Rob the Younger found a hat to match his beard

Kent & a camel

Jo & Julia

We had a surprise guest for the vodka tasting, which was a hit and involved reviews such as, “tastes like balls of air in my mouth”, “like vodka, only better”, “it's invading my personal space” and “quite horrible, has every bad attribute”.

Action Anil!  Guarding the vodka

Dressed up for the party

Maree dancing with Anil again, assisted by Will

Out at the group meal

Our last stop in Uzbekistan was Khiva, along a road which skirts the Kyzylkum (or red sand) desert.

Sunset over the Oxus river

Two nights in Khiva left time for shopping after Ali's tour of Itchan Kala, the walled inner city. The many handicraft and trinket stores lining the streets offered a wide range of gift ideas, and bargains were to be had with it being the very end of the tourist season. A few months ago these cities were sweltering, but now we are all having to rug up every morning.

Hats galore

The puppet making process

A puppet-maker helps Will find the perfect clothes for his puppets

Ali telling the group about Djuma Mosque

Eamonn wearing the queen's jewellery 

Khiva is very close to the border with Turkmenistan, though how long the border crossing will take is anyone's guess. A land of mystery, its capital Ashgabat described as a cross between Las Vegas and Pyongyang, we are all very interested to discover what our next destination has in store!