Crazy about Kyrgyzstan

Ah, bureaucracy. It took us 45 mins to enter China and over 7 hours to leave.  Apparently, the total of nearly 10 hours isn't even a bad crossing for the Torugart Pass.

Our introduction to Kyrgyzstan was both beautiful and brutal, with the setting sun lighting the mountains on fire while simultaneously dropping the temperature massively. Hats and gloves and scarves and thermals were all dug out of bags when we arrived at the caravanserai at Tash Rabat. Sleeping bags followed, everyone fluffing them up for their first use in months. Our night was to be spent in yurts, heated by yak dung stoves. After a wonderfully different dinner - a fairytale-like array - a few hardy souls sat around the fire before joining the rest as everyone dived into their beds.

Our yurt accommodation

Eamonn & Anil getting comfortable

Dinner - a lovely change from Chinese food!

Will enjoying the warmth of the moonlit fire 

In the light of morning we were able to fully appreciate the valley we were in. Some of the group got up early for a bracing walk and after breakfast our guide Natasha gave us a tour of the 10th century caravanserai.

The caravanserai in its superb setting

Rob the Younger, Jen, Maree, Eamonn, Julia & Martha inside the caravanserai

Ed & Kat pose outside

Rob the Younger and Ed overlooking the camp

Penelope and our yurts

Izzie giving a baby yak a bit of attention

Then it was time to head deeper into Kyrgyzstan, towards Kochkor, where we were spending the night at a lovely homestay. We were bounced around a bit; parts of the road were decent, while other sections seemed like someone had just poured a strip of broken tar down over the un-compacted terrain.

Carl the Camel leads us onward

With a long nomadic history, horses and horsemen dominate the rural areas of the country

John tries out a hat at the felt factory co-operative in Kochkor

The next day took us first along the shore of lake Issyk Kul, where we had lunch, and then up into the mountains again, to spend a couple of nights at a wonderful bush camp in the gorge of Jeti Orguz.

The Seven Bulls rock formation

Will helps guide Penelope up the first of 5 wooden bridges on the road up to camp

Superlatives came flying from every mouth - this really is a stunning part of the world. Many of the group took themselves off on walks or longer hikes into the surrounding forest. It was great to stretch our legs after the long drive days of western China.

Not a bad place to sleep

Eamonn caught out with a biscuit

Natasha leading a trek

Kent and Will setting up the spit roast lamb

Ratty & Rosie appreciating the view with Rob the Younger

We were treated to an eagle hunting display in the afternoon and also given the opportunity to hold the magnificent raptor.

Rob, Maree & Martha

The group, revitalised by the fresh air

Then it was back down the gorge and east to the town of Karakol, where autumn was in full swing and trees were laden with apples and walnuts. In fact, falling walnuts tumbling from the roof gave the homestay an exciting element!

Homestay garden

Yummy fruit

Karakol

View from town

Our next adventure had us leaving Penelope behind for two nights and jumping on Russian monster trucks up the rough road to Altyn Arashan. These things are incredible, taking on huge rocks and steep slopes with ease.

Jen & Kat and their monster truck

The group enjoying the scenery

Our mountain refuge

Most of the group again donned their walking boots and headed off on hikes. Altyn Arashan is situated near a hot spring, so the evenings were spent soaking weary feet before gathering around the warm stove for some hearty food.

Anil actioning his way through the wilderness

Kelly, having a Sound of Music moment

Anil, Jo, Julia & Peter on their hike

Eamonn posing with the scenery

Jen & Kent taking it all in

Kat washes her boots after misjudging a muddy section

After the sun went down it got pretty cold, pretty fast! 

Back on Penelope, we were off to Bishkek, where there was chance to do laundry and access that other essential, wifi! The group had a free day to explore the city and its bustling market.

Autumn colours by Lake Issyk Kul

Manas, Kyrgyzstan's national hero

Dried fruit and nuts, Osh market, Bishkek

After being in the wilds, these vehicles were an odd sight!

At this point, Natasha had to leave us and we got a new guide, Begaim, who would take us

south to Arslanbob via a bushcamp.

Ratty & Rosie reading up on the region

The route took us over another snowy mountain pass, but it was t-shirt weather by the time we camped!

Frequent stops were necessary for herds of sheep

Coming down from the pass

Begaim assisting Rob the Elder, Anil, Ed and Rob the Younger buying fermented mare's cheese balls from a roadside stall

The Kyrgyz flag

Lunchtime!

Everyone tucks in

Will flying some Chinese kites

Izzie attempting to get some higher ground for the kites while Jo makes a sandwich

Tortugal Dam was so beautiful that it made Kent and Rob the Elder strike the same pose

Our bush camp 

Eugene, evidently very pleased with the path he had cleared to his tent

We continued onto the sleepy town of Arslanbob the next day, where there was more walking on the agenda, as well as horse riding and a chance to experience rural Kyrgyz life.

Arslanbob

Rob the Younger and his trusty steed

Anil & Julia

In a delightful development, love has blossomed aboard Penelope!  Congratulations to Kelly & Eugene!

Walking to the waterfall

Martha & Begaim take lunch at a local chaikhana or teahouse

Warm, fresh bread - yum!

Local kids

Our time in what has become everyone's favourite country was coming to an end, woe. From Arslanbob we made our way to Osh, stopping en route to baffle the locals with a roadside lunch stop.

Ed, Maree & Julia get chopping

Penelope and some meandering cows

Osh market

Rob the Younger clutching our dinner!

Here we are staying the night before crossing into Uzbekistan, which will be covered in the next instalment. Here's a wee taster: